About a city torn apart and rebuilt, a city that finds itself in the Middle East but is resolutely European in attitude. That much is clear from the beautiful French architecture, the chic street-side cafes and the beautiful people that stride past.

The newly rebuilt Downtown is full of high-end boutiques and art galleries, while Gemmazye and Monot is where the city’s young and young-at-heart go to eat and party. The city’s eastern half is surrounded by mountains and a drive east will take you up winding roads that offer spectacular views of the city and the Mediterranean. Head further north during the winter months and you can spend the day skiing before descending back down into the city before sunset.

One of the city’s great pluses is its size; the centre of Beirut is easily walkable which is a good thing given the chaotic traffic. The city centre, stretching from Gemmazye and Monot Street to Hamra and Ain El Mraiseh is easy to get around and must-sees such as the National Museum of Beirut and the Beirut Art Center are only minutes away by taxi. But don’t make too many plans. Beirut has a habit of sucking you in and before you know it, it will be time to leave. So forget Paris; there really is nowhere else like Beirut.

 

See

Beirut has enough going on to satisfy the most demanding of travellers with a plethora of historic sights and some of the most vibrant street life in the Middle East.

The best way to explore the city is on foot; take a stroll through Hamra, stroll through the leafy gardens of the American University of Beirut (offering glorious sea views) and continue towards the Corniche. This 5km-long stretch of sidewalk curves along the coastline until it reaches the famous Pigeon Rocks in Rawcheh. There are plenty of beach clubs along the way if you want a drink or a dip in the sea. The best time to go is an hour or so before sunset so you reach Pigeon Rocks just as the sun dips into the horizon.

It may not be the first thing that comes to mind in Beirut but the Lebanese capital has some of the best diving in the region. With sunken freighters, warships and submarines dotting the seabed as well as Phoenician and Roman ruins, there is nowhere else in the world that offers such a variety of underwater experiences.

Back on dry land a must-see is the National Museum of Beirut, which was once decimated by the war but is now back to its former glory with a variety of Phoenician, Roman and Islamic artefacts. Another essential for culture lovers is the Sursock Museum in Ashrafieh. One of the few remaining examples of 18th century Lebanese architecture, the museum stocks a wide variety of local and international contemporary art. If you want to get a feel for Beirut’s new generation, make your way to the Beirut Art Center in Sin El Fil which contains an exhibition space, a bookstore, an auditorium and a rather cool café.

If you want to escape the city for a day, Lebanon has plenty to offer. The Baalbeck Roman ruins in the Bekaa Valley are the largest complete Roman ruins in the world and worth an early-morning trip.18km north of Beirut is the Jeita Grotto, one of the most beautiful natural wonders in the Middle East. Comprised of an upper and lower cave, the grotto is spectacular and well worth a day-trip.

Byblos, 25km north of Beirut is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the most picturesque and historically important towns on the Mediterranean. Take in the ruins and have lunch at one of the wonderful seafood restaurants.

One of the most beautiful towns in the Middle East is Bcharre, set amid forests of cedar trees, waterfalls and views across the country. This is the heart of Lebanon and a relaxing break from the chaos of downtown Beirut.

For castle lovers, Lebanon is heaven with three that stand up to anything else in the region. MoussaCastle is a five-storey tribute to Lebanon’s past built by Moussa Abdel Karim in 1962. It showcases Lebanese culture and heritage in a fairytale setting a few kilometres from Deir Al Qamar.

Sidon Castle dominates the coastal town of Sidon and is a reminder of the country’s Crusader past. Built in 1228, the top of the castle tower gives beautiful views across the town. Beit Eddine Castle is one of the most intriguing pieces of architecture in the Middle East. Completed in 1840, it is a near perfect example of 18th century Lebanese architecture and is used for concerts during the summer months. 

Stay

The newly opened Le Gray Hotel (Book here) is about as central as you can get – located across the road from Martyr’s Square. The rooms are large and beautifully designed – and there is a restaurant and bar on the roof that offers 360 views of the city. Rates start from $390 per night for a double room.

Another boutique choice is the Albergo Hotel (Book here) a restored 1930s mansion which combines subtle décor and excellent service in the heart of the city. Each room is different and the location is central but quiet. Head to the ninth-floor terrace for sweeping views of the city. Double rooms start from $275.

The Le Meridien Commodore (Book here) is located in the bustling Hamra district and is a slice of history when the hotel was the venue of choice for visiting diplomats and journalists. These days things are a bit quieter but the service is world-class and the location is perfect.

The InterContinental Pheonica Beirut (Book here) is located right on the Corniche and has spectacular views of the Mediterranean. A favourite of visiting dignitaries, the Pheonica combines world-class business facilities with a personal touch. Room rates start from $280.

Eat

There is nowhere else in the Middle East that does food like the Lebanese and Beirut is a gourmand’s paradise. From the coffee and croissants of Paul to the home-cooked local food of Le Chef in Gemmayzeh, Beirut has something for everyone.

The city eats late and long, a tell tale sign of its Mediterranean heritage. The food is always delicious and the variety on offer is huge. To try French food with a twist, check out Balima in Saifi Village for exquisite creations. If you want something more sizeable go to Al Falamanki on Damascus Street in Ashrafieh. Mouth-watering mezze and saj are available as is a large, leafy garden where you can smoke shisha in tranquillity.

Beirut also has the usual range of international cuisine, from Japanese (try Sushi Bar on Abdel Waheb Al Inglizi Sreet) to South American (Paladar in Ashrafieh is our favourite.)

Shop

The Lebanese love to shop and the renovated Downtown Beirut is full of high-end boutiques and cutting-edge designer stores. Beirut has plenty of shopping malls such as ABC Mall in Ashrafieh and Dunes Centre in Verdun, but we recommend visiting some of the lesser-known areas of town.

Souraty Street in Hamra has a host of funky shops with clothes, furniture and collectibles from local designers. Check out Condas for boutique furniture, Lamsa for quirky jewellery and XXe Siecle for one-of-a-kind collectibles.

Beirut has a few open-air markets, usually held at the weekend. Our favourite is the Burj Hammoud market held in the district of the same name in Beirut’s Armenian Quarter. Paintings, antiques, jewellery and the odd bizarre souvenir have turned this into one of the city’s hidden gems.

Red Tape

Money
The currency of Lebanon is the Lebanese Pounds but US$ are widely accepted. As of the 1st of March, the exchange rate was $1 to 1.5 Lebanese Pounds (LBP).
There are foreign exchange services at the airport and Beirut has ATMs on virtually every street corner.

Telephone
The country dialling code is +961.

Visas
Tourist visas can be purchased at Beirut Rafik Hariri International Airport at $34 for a 30-day visa. EU citizens do not need to purchase a tourist visa and GCC citizens get a 90-day visa for free. 

Transport
There is no public transportation to and from the airport and most hotels offer transfers for a cost. There are airport-regulated taxis that will bring you into the city centre (a 15 minute drive) for around 10,000LBP. There are plenty of taxis in Beirut, but be prepared to haggle as the drivers don’t use meters. Service Taxis are a lot cheaper but you will share the cab with other passengers and their routes are limited. Buses are also cheap and stop anywhere, just stick your hand out. Be sure you know where you are going though!