Home to one of the most beautiful and spectacular mosques in the world, the entire old city of Damascus has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The city is also increasingly one of the Levant’s popular destinations. Boutique hotels are replacing the slightly more down at heel establishments that previously passed as five star, while dining out has become a spectator sport, with tables at the hottest restaurants filling up days in advance.

As ever, the souqs hum with activity, offering a stupendous range of goods that can cause even the most ardent anti-shopper to have a Damascene conversion.

See

Many people refer to Damascus as the world’s largest unexcavated archaeological site. Each passing occupation has brought a new wave of construction, meaning that 10,000-year-old ruins sit some eight to ten feet below the street surface.

However, there is no shortage of things to see at street level. The Al Umayyad Mosque is one of the largest and most beautiful in the world. Not only a place or prayer, the mosque and its large courtyard functions as a community centre, where families gather to relax. Don’t miss the exquisite mosaics, and take time to visit the shrine to John the Baptist.

Entrance to Salah al-Din’s tomb is also included in the admission price. Situated in the garden adjoining the north wall of the mosque, the tomb is a suitably modest resting place for a famously austere ruler.

The National Museum of Damascus is an ideal place to pass an afternoon, marveling at the world’s first alphabet. The museum also houses an astonishing reconstruction of a second century synagogue, while the museum façade is worth the trip alone – it was once the exterior of the Qasr Alheer Algharbi.

Take the opportunity to make a trip to the peak of Mount Qasion. Make sure you negotiate the price in advance with your taxi driver, and consider just before sunset to get the full panoramic view over the city in daylight and by night. There are few vistas more beautiful than this when the city is bathed in light, with the Al Umayyad Mosque looking particularly spectacular.

Be sure to spend at least one day just wandering the streets of the Old City, savouring the aroma of spices that hang in the air. The beautiful courtyards of the old buildings will take up plenty of space on your digital camera, and if you want, you can still take the time to visit one of the famous Turkish bathhouse to sweat away the travel fatigue. 

Stay

The Beit Rumman Hotel (Book here)  is a must for visitors who want to get a real feel for the old city of Damascus. This six-bedroom boutique hotel is named for the two sisters who bought and renovated this old house and its beautiful courtyard in 2004. Guests are only a few minutes walk from all of the main attractions in the old city. Rooms average $225.

The Talisman Hotels (Book here) are a pair of boutique hotels situated just minutes from the old city. Similar to Beit Rumman, both have been exquisitely restored and both feature elegant courtyards where you can enjoy your evening coffee. Rooms average $220.

The Four Seasons (Book here) is a must for those who want to spend a little more. Home to almost all visiting dignitaries and celebrities, The Four Seasons is exactly what you'd expect from the chain – excellent service, great spa facilities and a prime location. Rooms average $470.

Eat

Food is easy to find in Damascus. From the ubiquitous shawarma and falafel stands to more traditional Damascene fare such as the fatteh, a delicious dish made of shredded bread soaked in stock and topped with chickpeas and yoghurt, there are plenty of on-street options for snacks.

For something a little more refined, try Al-Khawali, on Straight Street. Filled with locals and well-informed visitors alike, this restaurant is a must-visit. Expect to see traditional Syrian dishes on the menu, all prepared with the freshest of ingredients and the tastiest of spices. No alcohol, no credit cards.

Naranj, also on Straight Street is another restaurant with a solid claim on being the best in town. Try the lamb cooked in a clay pot with Bamya. Everything about this dish is perfect. Arrive extremely hungry, and book well in advance, as this place is popular with visitors, VIPs and locals.

Haretna in Bab Touma is another venue that you’ll need to call in advance. One of the places to people watch and be seen in Damascus, Haretna also boasts a large rooftop seating area, which is ideal for summer dining.

Shop

The Souq al-Hamidiyya is not only renowned for its atmosphere and value as a sightseeing destination; it’s also a fantastic place to shop for antiques and local crafts. Tony Stephan’s is one of the most famous shops in the Souq and is well known for its high quality and realistic prices. Old Bedouin jewellery, textiles, urns, mosaics and much more crowd the interior space, which is also adorned with photos of the various celebrities who have visited the shop over the years.

Bab Touma in the Christian Quarter of the Old City is also worth visiting for a wide variety of shops and street-side stalls. Silver and leather goods are particularly popular here; their stores sandwiched in between coffee shops and bars.

Radwan al-Taweel is a craftsman with years of experience in working with copper and brass. Famously hospitable, he is always happy to show you how he recycles brass shells from the war with Israel into holders for umbrellas and walking sticks. He also has celebrity fans – Muammar Gadaffi has one of these brass holders. You can find his shop just behind Hejaz Train Station.

For more modern designs, head to Al Hamra and Al Qassa’a where both local and international fashion boutiques line the streets. Forget about haggling in these shops, but it’s worth a trip to see Damascus’s beautiful people getting ready for a night out.

Fans of art can visit the bazaar near the National Museum of Damascus, or take a trip to see Mahmoud Shahin in his studio in Sharia al-Qaimariyya. The artist and novelist has exhibited his oil paintings worldwide, and is always open to talking to visitors about his work.

Red Tape

Money
The currency of Syria is the Syrian Pound (SYP). As of 1st of March 2010, $1 is equal to approx 45 Syrian Pounds. Travellers arriving at Damascus International Airport will find a money exchange office in the arrivals area. ATM machines are also available, but not always working. It is advisable to bring cash with you. Syrian Pounds can be difficult to obtain in advance, and it is advisable to bring US Dollars or Euro with you. ATMs are available in the major cities, but may not take credit cards

Telephone
The country dialling code is +963

Visas
The following nationals DO NOT require a visa: Algeria, Bahrain, Egypt, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Libya, Mauritania, Morocco, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Somalia, Sudan, Tunisia, United Arab Emirates & Yemen. All other nationalities should contact their local Syrian embassy to apply for a visa. 

Transport
Taxis can be arranged in advance with your hotel, or you can take a taxi from the airport to downtown Damascus for approximately S£1500.  Ensure that you agree a price before setting off, and carry a map or piece of paper with details of your hotel and a map if possible.
Getting around Damascus is quite easy. In the old city, it is advisable to walk everywhere. To go any further, take a taxi. It might not be easy to find one with a working meter, so agree a price in advance with the driver, or look for one of the more modern Star Taxis, who all have meters and more modern cars.