Spread along a 35km Corniche, Jeddah is as vibrant as any port city in the region. Muslims from West Africa to western Indonesia live here and so the food, the shopping and the chaos is truly global.

The heart of Old Jeddah, Al Balad, is one of the wonders of the world with stacks of coral houses piled up like cakes over bustling souks and dusty laneways. More surprises are in store out in the Red Sea where the diving is as good as in Sinai, but the lack of divers means there is even more to see with pristine coral and water as clear as anywhere on Earth.

A city like no other, Jeddah has a magic all of its own. It’s in the port, the Old Town and the faces of its cosmopolitan residents. Despite all its character, the city has yet to be overrun by tourists which makes a trip there all the more special.

See

The best place to get your bearings in Jeddah is the 35km-long Corniche. Hugging the Red Sea coast, the Corniche is packed every evening with families, joggers, teenagers, old men playing cards and wide-eyed tourists. The cool sea breeze draws people out of the city and you get a real sense of the cosmopolitan nature of the place after a stroll.

Another must-see are the Coral Houses in Al Balad. Although many of them have been left to fall apart, there are some that have been restored, most notably Nassef House, which also has a rather ramshackle museum attached.

The rather improbably named Al-Tayibat City Museumfor International Civilisation is well worth a visit. It has an incredible 300 rooms full of artefacts, manuscripts, furniture, gold, pottery and well, almost everything you can think of. Collected by one globetrotting local merchant, there are many museums around the world that would love even a fraction of the items on display. A definite must-see.

If you are in any doubt of the diversity of life in the Red Sea, a visit to the Fish Market in Al Balad. The range of fish is enormous: with everything from hammerhead sharks to squid and octopi on display. Everything is for sale, but no one minds if you wander around taking in the marine life.

Stay

The Moevenpick Resort Al Nawras (Book here) is one of Jeddah’s best hotels. Located on a private island that juts out into the Red Sea, the hotel has one and two-bedroom private villas each with its own pool. The hotel is perfectly located close to the city centre while being far enough away to enjoy the peace and quiet. One-bedroom villa rates start from $250.

Qasr Al Sharq (Book here) is as ostentatious as it gets in Jeddah. With personal butler, gold fittings and crystals everywhere, this Spanish-Arabic palace may not be for everyone but it is nothing if not luxurious. A huge spa, a hammam and a pool with a retractable roof ensure relaxation is at hand if all the bling gets too much. Room rates start at $500.

Park Hyatt Jeddah (Book here) is one of the most elegant hotels in the city. Subtle Arabian architecture gives way to stunning views of the Red Sea from almost every room. State-of-the-art facilities and some excellent restaurants (try Andalusia for authentic Moorish cuisine) make this one of the best hotels in the Kingdom. Room rates start at $300.

The InterContinental Jeddah (Book here) is one of the city’s best business hotels due to its location five minutes from the commercial centre of Jeddah. It also offers spectacular views of Jeddah Fountain, the world’s biggest and is a short walk from the Old Town. Guests do not have to check out until 3pm but you will have to pay for internet access. Room rates start at $250.

Eat

Jeddah’s food is as diverse as its population and there are not many places in the region where you will have as much choice. If this is your first time in Saudi, you need to try Kabsa, which is pretty much the Saudi’s national dish. Made with rice, meat, vegetables and a host of spices it is delicious and available all over Jeddah.

If you want the authenticity of the surrounding to match the food, head to Al Nakheel restaurant on Al Mukhtar Street in Al Khaledeyyah. Popular with locals and expatriates Al Nakheel is right by the sea and styled like a Bedouin tent. The seafood is a speciality, but be warned, the place gets busy, so get there early if you want a table.

On the northern stretch of the Corniche is the Green Island Café, a western-style coffee shop that serves rather delicious pastries and offers beautiful views out to sea. The menu is large and calorie-laden but it’s the perfect place for a coffee and a pastry as the sun goes down.

If you really want to splash out however there is only one option: Bice at the Qasr Al Sharq. This Italian restaurant is big on flourishes: Versace tableware, 25-year-old balsamic vinegar and more waiters than chairs. The food however is fantastic with the quality of the ingredients showing through. Over the top? Yes, but memorable all the same.

Shop

Jeddah is a shopper’s paradise with everything from hand-made jambiyas to hand-made Jimmy Choos on sale. Many tourists head to Rayhanat al-Jazirah Street first, which has a row of antique shops, selling everything from ceremonial daggers to Bedouin jewellery. The smell of incense hangs over the street, making the haggling all the more pleasant.

Jeddah’s Souq is one of the most interesting in the Middle East thanks to the cross section of nationalities that live and work there. Yemen, Sudan, Iraq and Egypt are all represented in the myriad shops that compete for business. Don’t be afraid to haggle for what you want, and don’t go just after sunset when much of the Souq closes down for an hour.

For something completely different head to the Mall of Arabia, which has 261,000 square metres of retails space including high-end brands such as Armani, Massimo Dutti and Fred Perry as well as a glut of food outlet and even an ice rink.

If you prefer to do your shopping outdoors, then Tahlia Street is the place to go. Jeddah’s answer to Rodeo Drive, the street is full of luxury boutiques and luxury cars driving up and down the strip. It’s worth sitting outside in one of the coffee shops at the weekend and watching the procession of top-end motors drive by.

Red Tape

Money
The currency of Saudi Arabia is the Saudi Riyal (SAR). As of the 1st of March, the exchange rate was $1 to 3.75 SAR. Foreign exchange services are available before customs, and ATMs and exchange facilities are freely available at all major International hotel chains.

Telephone
The country dialling code is +966.

Visas
GCC residents can get tourist visas on arrival at King Abdulaziz International Airport. All other nationalities need to have a local sponsor for a business visa, or be part of an official tour group in order to get a tourist visa. Check with your local Saudi embassy or consulate for details. 

Transport
There are two types of taxi in Jeddah: yellow cars with ‘taxi’ signs which are the cheapest option and white ‘limousine’ cars which have air-conditioning and are about 20 percent more expensive, but worth it for long trips. Most hotels also have so-called water taxis, which are actually minivans, which ferry tourists from their hotel to the main tourist sights.